Binouses star, all-terrain pizza and home cooking, no good addresses of the week in Paris

EAT WELL IN PARIS # 71 – Restaurant, grocery store, wine cellar, pastry shop, baruri cu cocktailuri… Our food critic and our bar critic distribute the “T’s”. This week at the test bench: La Riposte, Inizio, Les petites bulles and Brewdog Le Marais.

La Riposte R

The beautiful team of La Parade (11th) had the good idea to move a few steps from the Place de Clichy, in a quiet street. Its small terrace, shaded at lunchtime and always nice for an aperitif, extends to 21 bis, rue de Bruxelles, which allows you to discover what Zola wrote the famous “Accuse.” That’s for intellectual food. But instead of terrestrials, I formally accuse them of being delicious! Sardinian Mattia sends splendid pizzas to the stoves when cutting, seasoned with kindness thanks to Rubby’s welcome. On a background of tomato (with melted eggplant and sensual ricotta) or cream of pecorino (with pumpkin et milk flower), their fine dough, due to the technique of the biga (pre-fermented dough), has very crisp edges. In the evening, we discover the cuddles, fried pizza dough balls, to be accompanied byarancini ultra-crispy and speck or coppa. Is the terrace complete? Everything is taken away, so head to Berlioz Square, less than 100 meters away! – EP

19, rue de Bruxelles, 9e. 06 19 73 72 25. 12-15pm on Mon. on Fri., 6 pm-11pm from Tue to Sat. Lunch menus € 11.90-15.90, evening € 25 approx. The option vég

Start q

In the hall, at the beginning.

Photo by Antoine Vincens de Tapol for Télérama

Little Breton weekend on the horizon … but the weather decides otherwise: flooded tracks, no trains, everything falls into place! Stomach in my heels, I try to support myself with mine and find refuge not in a creperie, but in this cosmopolitan pizzeria run by a Canadian and a French chef. In the room, with a smile, Bob snacks a place for our suitcases and works to turn the cata day into a good time. Pasta, antipasti or pizzas, there is something to please the whole family! to pasta all’amatriciana to the tomato, to the pillow and au pecorino is in the nails, al dente and tasty. The sourdough pizza of the moment, topped with roasted asparagus, ham with herbs, mozzarella and raw green asparagus, in chips, nicely seasoned with a lemon zest, will suit lovers of thick sidewalks and generous toppings. to panna cotta with Sicilian milk, strawberries and pistachios, slightly sour and lighter than cream, brings together Brittany and Italy in a happy combination. An all-terrain neighborhood transalpine that does more than save the day! – EP

41, rue du Montparnasse, 14th. 09 81 94 66 05. From the sea. au dim. 12h-14h30 and 19h-22h. Pate 15-16 €, pizza 12,50-17 €. Végé option. Res. advised.

The little bubbles q

The Little Bubbles Room.

The Little Bubbles Room.

Photograph by Antoine Vincens de Tapol for Télérama

Shivering inflation forces, it is less and less easy to have lunch at a restaurant table for less than € 15. Magnanimous but pragmatic, my editor gives me 1 euro more so that I can continue to find good deals at low prices, which allowed me to settle in this cheerful bistro in the Marcadet district. If you pour natural wine in the evening, the atmosphere is more sober at noon, but you always want to cook everything at home. Proof with these simple mayo eggs, herbaceous sauce and topped with fried shallots, and this refreshing mint zucchini soup. After a bit of a wait (the restaurant is listed in the area), an Espelette chili sausage was served to me with puree – not potatoes but chickpeas – a bit bland and good spinach sotate. Nice dessert to finish, with a few pieces of lemon and olive oil cake on a lemon cream that wakes up the palate. A charming address, which does not lack a vegetarian option to satisfy all envies. – EP

15 Simart Street, 18th. 01 42 59 58 80. From Monday. au ven. 12pm-2pm. Lunch menus € 16-19. Res. advised.

Brewdog Le Marais R

A beer from Brewdog Le Marais.

A beer from Brewdog Le Marais.

Photo by Louis-Adrien Le Blay

Are you looking for an honest bar in the Marais where you can offer good trendy craft beers? Alas, this is a real desert, except here, in this oasis founded by the Scottish brand Brewdog, which will not really be described as craft, so much so that the latter has grown in size for a few years Dead Pony Club …). But on the twenty-two beaks there are also limited series of the house (Milkshake IPA, Tony’s Hopolonely …) and guest breweries that we like (Outland, Fauve, Nautile …), the base pilsner, sour, session. Drinks with real flavors. Every Friday a new beer appears on the menu and, every day, you can also eat on the spot (pizza, salad …). Inside, the setting is Anglo-Saxon, with Chesterfield benches and scratched walls. Outside, on the other hand, the small terrace spreads out on a small square all the more parigote, fresh and pleasant. All that remains is to follow the maxim engraved on the glasses: “Live fast, drink slowly”! – LJ

1, pl. de Thorigny, 3rd. Sun-Game 12h-0h, Fri. et sam. 12h-1h. Pints ​​from € 6.75, pizza € 12-13.

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