Tribune. Culinary France as well as political France today seem to me to look more to the past than to the future, as if our cuisine seemed destined to return to the recipes of yesteryear. Indeed, the savoir-faire inherited from Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935) and the cuisine of the first half of the twentieth centurye century seem to make a powerful comeback on our maps.
I don’t deny their importance or gluttony, but I wonder if today’s cuisine is reducible to its past. Shouldn’t it instead be a field of experimentation, conducive to creation? Are we ready for a French cuisine that would favor an avant-garde approach?
Gastronomy has given me so much that the realization of its regression can not leave me indifferent. In this preference for recipes of the past, I read a rejection of innovation and the renunciation of tasty and bold tomorrow. I notice a nostalgic and comfortable step back.
Or, the search for new culinary horizons is the only possible way to move the kitchen forward, to give it the energy it needs to satisfy the changing appetite of today’s consumers. This step of progress must also allow our diet to comply with the constraints posed by saving our planet.
This culinary setback tends to obscure key issues and prohibit necessary changes. Like other creative professions, the kitchen is an organic matter, which must be open to new influences, new practices or technologies. The current way will not be defined only in the old sketches of the great couturiers of the new look. As for architecture, it is also advancing with its time: as evidenced by Jean Nouvel’s tumultuous projects.
You have to know how to keep your eyes open for the world to patiently add layers of knowledge from other horizons to the common pot of gastronomy. French cuisine has mastered the subject: it knows how to perfectly integrate this knowledge that makes it always more interesting.
I know exactly how much France today has a very exceptional density of culinary talent. This gastronomic offer never ceases to amaze and delight me. I meet talented leaders, women and men, of all ages and nationalities, facilities in Paris and in the region, concerned with today’s issues, courageous in their ability to undertake.
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