In Elvira Masson’s kitchen

She still can’t get over it. When Emmanuelle Touboul, director of Spring Restoration, offered to imagine, for a few months, the new table on the sixth floor of the department store, from her newly published cookbook, Elvira Masson first felt anxiety go up: “Impossible, I can’t cook for more than ten people!” » Then, when she realized that a chef was coming to cook a card that looked like her, the tension dropped a notch, and she gave way to some emotion.

Seated at the back table, she contemplates, wide-eyed, several customers attached under the dome: “To say that all these people are eating my recipes!” » She is there, every day when she can, in the hall or in the hallway, scrutinizing every detail, checking the dressage, chatting with the servers – all with infinite delicacy. Not the kind to impose itself, and especially not with chef Clément Blondeau, « a cook who doesn’t have too much ego to agree to make recipes for a girl who isn’t even a chef, ” she slips into a smile. Between them, the good waves immediately circulated. Last validation: «LMy mother’s balls came out impeccably at first. »

The sequel after the ad

Compiled in a beautiful book entitled “In My Kitchen” (1), Elvira’s recipes are spontaneous, intuitive, and tasty, of course, and they have a taste for everything else.
A Swedish mother (hence the köttbullarthe famous dumplings), a French father and traveler, who was able to bring Parmesan cheese from Italy to prepare a pesto worthy of the name, and a strong personal tropism for Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavors, brought him an opening of spirit that is found today in its fresh and original associations.

Elvira Masson

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The 40-year-old diaphanous, with wheat-blond hair and ultra-fast flow, has not always been the one who today is able to prepare a sumptuous frichti in thirty minutes with not much, dishes like this posset of lemon (lemon cream) of which she is very proud, or this green chatchuka that makes a tobacco. Studying as a wise girl, right in Assas, leaves a mark, and it is only during an Erasmus in Sweden that she begins to cook.

Desert signed Elvira Masson to be found on the map of Blue Dome in the Haussmann Spring
Desert signed Elvira Masson to be found on the map of Blue Dome in the Haussmann Spring

A devourer of French and Anglo-Saxon magazines, a film fan (she went there four to five times a week at the time) she made a decisive encounter during an internship at AlloCiné. This is the beginning of an unfailing friendship with François-Régis Gaudry, which she accompanies to “l’Express” to the gastronomy section, after a brief stint at Fooding. She regularly spoke with him on his Sunday show “On va déguster” on France-Inter for more than ten years and almost as much on the Paris Première pentru channel “Très très bon” on angles rather ” food company ». The one who can boast of being one of the first to speak of the now iconic Ottolenghi in France always wants to surprise, with a cuisine that resembles life, ” with his desires, his moods, his obsessions, his intuitions … his imperfections, too ”. The kitchen as life goes on.

Restaurant Bleu Coupole, Printemps Haussmann Femme, until June 30.(1) Marabout, € 29.

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