She still can’t get over it. When Emmanuelle Touboul, director of Spring Restoration, offered to imagine, for a few months, the new table on the sixth floor of the department store, from her newly published cookbook, Elvira Masson first felt anxiety go up: “Impossible, I can’t cook for more than ten people!” » Then, when she realized that a chef was coming to cook a card that looked like her, the tension dropped a notch, and she gave way to some emotion.
Seated at the back table, she contemplates, wide-eyed, several customers attached under the dome: “To say that all these people are eating my recipes!” » She is there, every day when she can, in the hall or in the hallway, scrutinizing every detail, checking the dressage, chatting with the servers – all with infinite delicacy. Not the kind to impose itself, and especially not with chef Clément Blondeau, « a cook who doesn’t have too much ego to agree to make recipes for a girl who isn’t even a chef, ” she slips into a smile. Between them, the good waves immediately circulated. Last validation: «LMy mother’s balls came out impeccably at first. »
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Compiled in a beautiful book entitled “In My Kitchen” (1), Elvira’s recipes are spontaneous, intuitive, and tasty, of course, and they have a taste for everything else.
A Swedish mother (hence the köttbullarthe famous dumplings), a French father and traveler, who was able to bring Parmesan cheese from Italy to prepare a pesto worthy of the name, and a strong personal tropism for Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavors, brought him an opening of spirit that is found today in its fresh and original associations.
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The 40-year-old diaphanous, with wheat-blond hair and ultra-fast flow, has not always been the one who today is able to prepare a sumptuous frichti in thirty minutes with not much, dishes like this posset of lemon (lemon cream) of which she is very proud, or this green chatchuka that makes a tobacco. Studying as a wise girl, right in Assas, leaves a mark, and it is only during an Erasmus in Sweden that she begins to cook.
A devourer of French and Anglo-Saxon magazines, a film fan (she went there four to five times a week at the time) she made a decisive encounter during an internship at AlloCiné. This is the beginning of an unfailing friendship with François-Régis Gaudry, which she accompanies to “l’Express” to the gastronomy section, after a brief stint at Fooding. She regularly spoke with him on his Sunday show “On va déguster” on France-Inter for more than ten years and almost as much on the Paris Première pentru channel “Très très bon” on angles rather ” food company ». The one who can boast of being one of the first to speak of the now iconic Ottolenghi in France always wants to surprise, with a cuisine that resembles life, ” with his desires, his moods, his obsessions, his intuitions … his imperfections, too ”. The kitchen as life goes on.
Restaurant Bleu Coupole, Printemps Haussmann Femme, until June 30.(1) Marabout, € 29.