Test: The Cuisine of Naxhelet in Wanze

Jan Scheidtweiler is attached to La Cuisine de Naxhelet à Wanze: a gourmet restaurant in a beautiful area.

A good meal is (almost) as important as a well-appointed green. Françoise et Bernard Jolly does not understand perfectly: the owners of the huge estate of Naxhelet, à Wanze, have invested in a golf course of 30 pants, hotel rooms with wellness areas and brasserie, a bakery and an elegant gourmet restaurant, La Cuisine .

With a comfortable mobile sound and green views, the address offers a clear and spacious atmosphere. The large library creates a clubhouse atmosphere and the well-stocked wine cabinet is a good example of the fact that here you can enjoy the good things in life.

Important precision: here, we cook the vegetables from the vegetable garden, a gourmet gesture.

© David Plas

Chef Jacques Demany and second Maxence Gaspard proposed a promising menu: lobster, celery, apple, pear and wasabi flavored mayabi (23.5 euros); crispy veal ribs, spinach sprouts, carrots, mace cream & truffle (34.5 euros); marbled foie gras with Sauternes & fluffy brioche from their bakery (21.50 euros); sole meunière, leek stoemp, onion stew, thyme and onion (33.5 euros). Important precision: here, we cook the vegetables from the vegetable garden, a gesture as greedy as it is friendly.

La Cuisine offers its customers a three-course lunch (32 euros) in 59 minutes. An interesting concept, but a promise that the room and kitchen staff are struggling to keep. After an hour we had only one dish, an acceptable entree around a low temperature egg, mushrooms and onion. An unexpected influx of customers without reservations complicates the timing, but, fortunately, with a good glass of Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil (7 euros), the wait is still pleasant.

The main course, a wise plate of duck breast, finally arrives. The meat is not incredibly tasty and the seasoning is minimalist, a flaw that can also be found in the toppings: both the carrot cream and the broccoli and cauliflower would have benefited from being a little more uplifting. The few shot potatoes and honey-based juice from the bare field fail to save the bet.

The simple but tasty dessert of strawberries, lemon zest and dark chocolate ganache manages to catch up on lunch mistakes. The gourmet restaurant in this beautiful estate looks promising, but unfortunately it still doesn’t live up to expectations.

Rue Naxhelet 1, 4520 Wanze. Goal. 085 / 82.64.08. www.naxhelet.be
Closed Saturday noon and Sunday evening.
I paid 47.30 euros.
Belgian and French wine list: big names from Burgundy, Beaujolais, Rhône and Bordeaux, although few vintages are really “ready to drink”. Seven wines by the glass (from 7 to 9 euros).
With very spaced tables, one is pleasantly seated. Calm atmosphere and good acoustics.
In return?
At the moment, the dishes are not sensational and the promise of timing is not fully kept. There is still bread on the board.

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