The taste of Paris – Why you will love Vesper

An would not necessarily have gone to them, but we still allowed ourselves to be tempted by remembering this immutable rule that applies to the kitchen: never let doubt hover and have a clear palate. So we succumbed to the gyozas of Vesper, a table with a semi-secret, semi-spooky atmosphere that opened at the end of January on Bosquet Avenue, in the 7e borough, near the Military School. The third address of the series restorer Guillaume Benard after Fitzgerald and Abstinence.

In this temple, which combines two rooms into one – a festive first in golden tones with its central bar and open kitchen, an intimate second with its velvet benches and colonial-style wallpaper – Lucas Felzine celebrates Nikkei cuisine , a mixture of the flavors of Peru and Japan. It is precisely this fusion of South America and the empire of the Land of the Rising Sun that permeates the gyozas (18 euros). It takes no less than five days to shape its grilled plump ravioli on one side and steam on the other unfolding in a hollow plate. All you have to do is start tasting them.

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Under each thin layer of wheat and rice dough, our taste buds discover a subtle Quercy or Landes duck stuffing between the thigh-shaped thighs and the frayed sleeves. This apparent delicacy is suddenly electrified by an explosion of flavors in the mouth. It starts with the Japanese virgin condiment combining yuzu kosho, soy, miso… which cap the gyozas. An intensity that continues by savoring the broth of a Peruvian curry made from peppers (aji panca, aji amarillo, rocoto) and herbs (huacatay, a kind of marigold, and papalo, a kind of coriander). In the end, all the forces in the presence of dialogue in a thread to reach a rare balance. What a feat!

Malicious alchemy

This is the alchemy found in Lucas Felzine’s imagined mischievous card. Like tiger sea bream ceviche with seaweed jam and seaweed jam (21 euros), grilled octopus lacquered with spices and olives (32 euros) or pork breast (28 euros) candied ten hours with robata (Japanese barbecue), umeshu (Japanese plum) and huacatay (again marigold). Fans of sushi can rely on the thin blade of Mitsuho Miyauchi, which springs up every minute about twenty references of sashimi, nigiris, makis, temakis (from 7 to 30 euros).

As a dessert, don’t miss the stunning sesame and yuzu mochi (12 euros). Far from the traditional icy versions, it is here voluntarily served soft and is to fall. On the liquid side, venture into the dazzling cocktail menu (from 12 to 17 euros) created by Agathe Potel. With obviously the Vesper (16 euros) in mind dear to James Bond and slightly revisited (Hendrick’s gin, cucumber, vermouth, dill, bitter celery).

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Vesper, 81, avenue Bosquet, Paris (7e). Open Monday to Sunday noon and evening. Menus: 38 and 45 euros for lunch. Card: from 39 to 85 euros. 01 45 33 81 25

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