these grocery stores run by great chefs

22:00, June 8, 2022

Recent food scandals over pizzas and industrial chocolates are prompting him to monitor his shopping cart. The search for a good product goes through the market and local producers, but also through fine and well-sourced groceries, such as those of the brilliant pioneers Julia Sammut (L’Idéal, in Marseille) or Alessandra Pierini (les comptoirs italiens RAP, in Paris). They are no longer alone: ​​confinement has pushed chefs to diversify, and some have developed a declining offer of their cuisine. Sauces, spices, wine, ethical hams, kitchen jars and even sandwiches. Visit.

The stars: terroir and fetish recipes

In Talloires (Haute-Savoie), on the shores of Lake Annecy, double-starred chef Jean Sulpice naked did not stop working during the confinement. He set out to create a takeaway offer. Il ya depuis pris goût: restaurant, L’Auberge du Père Bise, now hosts a new client looking for kitchen trésors, with lifeguards associations who can’t find elsewhere. In addition to its pâtés and ice cream, it offers jams combining local fruits and herbs (blueberry and caraway, raspberry, tarragon and lemon), its own olive oil created with its producer and jars of fruits and vegetables. It can also be served in the chocolate library, made with the master chocolatier Stéphane Bonnat.

In Lyon (Rhône), Mathieu Viannay, at the helm of La Mère Brazier (two stars), rehabilitated the famous “pot holder” of the Lyon chef who won three stars in his time. The famous grocery store, which it opened in 1921, now takes the form of a grocery store where you can taste homemade products (sourdough bread, cold cuts, aged cheeses, wines) and good local recipes concocted by the chef in person: chickens from Bresse, pillows from the beautiful Aurore and 11 pâtés in crust!

Just because you have three stars doesn’t mean you’re jealously guarding (all) your secrets. Cheffe Anne-Sophie Pic has created l’éPICerie à Valence (18, place Saint-Jean, but also on line and in all restaurants), which wants an extension of the kitchen and an illustration of the associations of rescuers who sign: des teas with pink geranium or fir buds, a Meyer lemon gin, Cuban pepper and smoked black tea and a collection of peppers soaked in alcohol (gin, absinthe, etc.). In Marseille, the son of Gérald Passedat, a three-star son of Le Petit Nice, has been offering infusions à boire and homemade bouillons for cooking fish since 2008, made with the local herbalist Le Père Blaize.

The bistros: caterer of character and cooked dishes

Less codified than the restaurant, the grocery store may also be a free space for bistros who want to leave free course to a more original cuisine. Laura Portelli understood this before everyone else by opening her Wagram Dining Room in 2015 (8, rue Meissonier, Paris 17th). Long before confinement, she chose to develop a kitchen “Traditional, popular and democratic” of Italian inspiration, in homage to its origins. Organic products, sources and the rhythm of the season meet with the stalls, with plates to taste on the spot or to regain the house. She makes it a point to prepare roasted vegetables, fricassee, roast meat, and raw foods every day. For example, recently: meatballs (meatballs), veal marengo, veal tonnato, white whiting sauce or sweet curry potatoes… A tasty caterer at affordable prices (20 euros per meal).

Julia Sedefdjian also wanted to pay homage to her Nice roots by opening Cicero, a delicatessen, in place of her old bar (8, rue de Poissy, Paris 5th). Before becoming the chef of the Baieta, a star-studded table located nearby, the young woman lived in Nice, between socca and panisses. Chickpeas, this chameleon legume that adapts to vegetarian recipes and aperitifs, were perfect for concocting hummus, falafels, lasagna, pissaladières or chocolate cookies. , in “socca chips”, as well as in olive oil.

David Rathgeber, chef at L’Assiette, a rogue-chic bistro in Paris (181, rue du Château, 14th), took advantage of the Covid crisis to make his well-sourced grocery and street food-inspired project a reality “travel” restaurant attached to his. Customers have become accustomed to tasting its super sandwich recipes and its short but effective menu: Peking style duck bao, “bougnat” burger, sausage pancakes, caramel creams, wine and craft beers.

It is in Trouville-sur-Mer (Calvados) that the chef of the Key West restaurant in Blonville-sur-Mer, Clarie Feral, and her childhood friend Chloé Safra, a journalist, opened in 2021 in a source product store local: Les Toqués du Terroir (46, rue des Bains). After meeting the Norman producers, they showcased their treasures by offering their selection of cheeses, eggs, sausages, flours, beers, jars or vegetables.

The cuisine by the way: the world in jars and sandwiches

Open this winter in Paris (2, rue de la Fontaine-au-Roi, 11th), Tawlet celebrates Lebanese cuisine along mezzés and street food everywhere. This free expression, in the form of a buffet, is based on the cuisine of the country’s mothers and grandmothers, with their typical products, regional, seasonal, and through dishes such as moujadara, moughrabieh (Lebanese couscous) or manousheh . The place also offers a weekly and direct grocery products from the Lebanese Souk El Tayeb producer market.

In the same Lebanese vein, the star Alan Geaam has developed several Parisian addresses in honor of his home country (the Qasti bistro, the Sâj street food counter and the Qasti Shawarma & Grill). In late March, he opened his delicatessen, Le Doukane (212 St. Martin Street, 3rd). It picks the products of the best artisans who work the Lebanese land: wines, spices, dried fruits and vegetables, dried herbs, condiments, pastries, molasses, jams, fresh cheeses, breads, etc.

Heading to Greece with Comme à Athènes (31, rue Linné, Paris 5th), the third address by Chloé Monchalin-Chronopoulos and Benjamin Rousselet (Grand Café d’Athènes, Filakia and Petit Café d’Athènes). This new place is a hybrid place between canteen, grocery store and caterer. We travel to the Mediterranean: next to spicy meat, spanakopitas, koulourias or tzatziki-pita, the shelves are filled with Greek artisanal wines and beers or mastic-based water; “kritharakis” (Greek pasta “bird’s tongue”), honey, olives, tangerine jam or “kebab” spice mixes.

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